3-5 Day Backpack Trip Recommendations

[Tnissen]

Hi - we are a group of three. Me: 51-year-old Dad; two sons ages 19 and 18. We're looking for recommendations for a 4-5 day backpacking trip. We've done a lot of camping and backpacking over the years. I would call us in reasonable shape. No marathoners, but we all keep active. We've not been to GNP before, so we're looking for a trip loop or one-way with shuttle option that will give us some good variety.

My other challenge is we're coming from Michigan in late July/early August by plane, so we're boxed in on dates. Will we have trouble getting day-of permits for a good route if our advance application doesn't get picked?

Any insights on trail routes, pre-trip lodging and anything else to make the most of our trip would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[Hockey Ref]

Welcome! The FAQs at the link below have suggestions on BC camping trips and the BC permit process. They should help get you started. I've excerpted the relevant parts, but there is much more in the overall document if you are interested.

http://glacier.nationalparkschat.com/ph ... ?f=1&t=580

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BACKPACKING AND BACKCOUNTRY CAMPING

Q. What are the requirements for backcountry backpacking and camping?

A. Glacier offers backcountry camp sites throughout the park. These are the only places where backcountry camping generally is allowed. Overnight camping at these sites requires a Backcountry Use Permit that specifies your itinerary and the camp site(s) to which you and your group are assigned. It must be in your possession and available for inspection by a ranger at all times.

There are two ways to obtain a Backcountry Use Permit: an advance reservation obtained through the park’s lottery system or a walk-up permit obtained in person from one of the park’s backcountry reservation offices.

Advance reservations are issued for approximately half of the campsites at each Glacier backcountry campground. Any reservation made more than one day prior to the start of a backcountry trip is considered an advance reservation and requires a $20 reservation fee. This fee is not charged for reservations made within one day of starting a trip. Advance reservation applications are accepted only for trips that begin between June 15 and October 31.

Q. What are the advance reservation procedures?

A. Advance reservation applications may be submitted by mail or fax starting January 1 of each year. Applications are accepted only on the official form available on the park website at:
http://www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/u ... cation.pdf

A maximum of two trips may be included on a single form, and each trip may include a first and second choice of itinerary. A trip is defined as an itinerary that enters and then exits the backcountry at a trailhead or developed area.

Assignment of camp sites is made via a lottery that begins on April 15. All applications received by April 15 are randomly sorted before being processed. Applications received after April 15 are processed in the order received. If you want a specific backcountry route on specific dates, it is essential to submit an advance reservation application by April 15 as the number of requests generally exceeds the number of backcountry campsites available for advance reservation.

Once the lottery process is completed (it may take several weeks), you may apply for an advance reservation up to 24 hours before the start of your hoped-for trip. Keep in mind, however, that the most popular sites may already be assigned and you may not get your first choice. As an alternative, you may take advantage of the park’s walk-up permit process outlined below.

Q. What is the procedure for obtaining a walk-up permit?

A. Approximately half of all backcountry camp sites are assigned via the walk-up permit process. Walk-up permits may be obtained in person from any of the backcountry offices listed below. A walk-up permit is issued no earlier than 24 hours before your hoped-for trip. In other words, if you want to start your trip on August 15, you can apply no earlier than August 14. You should plan to be at the office at least one hour before it opens to be first in line for permits issued for the following day. If you're not early, your chances of getting the most popular sites diminish greatly. Some folks recommend using the backcountry office in Apgar on the park’s western edge since that is where the "mother ship" computer is located, but all backcountry offices are tied into the same system.

• Apgar Backcountry Permit Center (open daily from May 1 through October 31)

• Many Glacier Ranger Station (open daily from late May to mid-September)

• St. Mary Visitor Center (open daily from late May through September)

• Two Medicine and Polebridge Ranger Stations (open daily from early June through mid-September)

• Waterton Lakes National Park Visitor Reception Centre (open daily from early June through mid-September)

Q. How can I be sure to get the backcountry trip/route I want?

A. There is no way to ensure that any specific backcountry route or camp site will be available for advance registration or via the walk-up process. You can improve your chances of getting a specific route or campground by planning early and submitting your advance registration application before April 15. You also can increase your chances by indicating flexibility in your application. This may include allowing changes to your requested itinerary, reversing directions on loop or through hikes, and being flexible in terms of the dates you are able to enter and leave the backcountry.

Detailed information on backcountry camping in Glacier can be found at: http://www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/backcountry.htm

Note: There is a specific “Backcountry Permits” section on this site at: viewforum.php?f=10

Q. What are the best backcountry loop hikes in Glacier?

A. Glacier’s backcountry provides a wealth of beautiful trails and backcountry campgrounds allowing for short or long backpacking trips. Since transportation sometimes can be problematic, loop (circular) hikes are popular, though the Glacier trail system does not provide many true loop-hike opportunities. Several of the most popular multi-day loop hikes include:

• The North Loop (Many Glacier area) – This challenging but gorgeous route starts and ends in the Many Glacier region. It follows Swiftcurrent Pass west over the Continental Divide to the Granite Park area, continues north along the spectacular Northern Highline Trail to its intersection with the Stoney Indian Pass Trail, crosses beautiful Stoney Indian Pass, and enters the peaceful Belly River Valley. From there, trails offer two routes back to the Many Glacier area. One takes the Ptarmigan Tunnel into Many Glacier from the north, while the other crosses Red Gap Pass and enters Many Glacier from the east/northeast. This trip generally requires five to seven days, covers 54-62 miles, and rises/falls between 9,800 and 10,600 feet depending on the precise route and direction. The route can be hiked either clockwise or counter-clockwise. More information and photos on the Northern Highline and Fifty Mountain portions of this route at: http://enjoyyourparks.com/glacierparkfiftymountain.html. Information and photos on the Ptarmigan Tunnel portion of the hike at: http://enjoyyourparks.com/GlacierParkPt ... unnel.html

• Red Gap Pass – Ptarmigan Tunnel Loop (Many Glacier area) – At 28 miles, this is a shorter variation of the North Loop and usually includes one night at Poia Lake and another at Elizabeth Lake (foot) as it follows the Red Gap Pass and Ptarmigan Tunnel trails. Most commonly completed as a three-day, two-night trip. More information and photos of the Ptarmigan Tunnel portion of the route at: http://enjoyyourparks.com/GlacierParkPt ... unnel.html

• Dawson Pass / Pitamakan Pass Loop (Two Medicine area) – As previously described in the day hiking section, Daw-Pit is a highly scenic route that can be completed as a long (19-mile) day hike or as a one- or two-night backcountry route with a proper permit. Campsites along this route are at Oldman Lake below Pitamakin Pass and No Name Lake below Dawson Pass. More information and photos at: http://enjoyyourparks.com/GlacierParkTwoMedicine.html

There also are many popular overnight or multi-day backpacking routes that can be turned into loops with one day of backtracking or by using the hiker shuttle.

Q. What about through hikes for backcountry camping?

A. Two of the most popular through hikes for backcountry campers in Glacier are:

• The Northern Traverse – The Northern Traverse is a rugged and strenuous multi-day backpack that roughly parallels the northern edge of Glacier National Park. This route typically begins at the Chief Mountain customs and ranger station in the northeast corner of the park and ends at Kintla Lake in the park’s northwest corner. This highly scenic trek typically requires six to eight days and covers 58 to 66 miles depending on specific route and campsites. Total elevation gain along this route is approximately 10,200 feet and the total elevation loss is approximately 11,660 feet. Several campsites along the western portion of this route often do not open until early August or later due to unsafe snow conditions.

The hike also can be started from the Many Glacier area by going through the Ptarmigan Tunnel or via Lee Ridge and the Gable Pass trail. These two options offer spectacular scenery but also make for a tough first day. From the Lee Ridge trailhead to a first night camp at the foot of Elizabeth Lake a backpacker will climb over 2,450 feet to the intersection with the Gable Pass trail. Then they will descend just over 3,000 feet over the next 3.6 miles to the Belly River Ranger Station. From there, four easy miles in the Belly River Valley will deliver you to the camp at the foot of beautiful Elizabeth Lake.

Starting the Northern Traverse from Chief Mountain eliminates virtually all of the uphill and cuts approximately three miles off the first day’s hike.

Starting from Many Glacier the trail will climb 2,480 feet before reaching the Ptarmigan Tunnel and descending to the foot of Elizabeth Lake, offering spectacular scenery throughout the 10-mile first day. Additional information and photos on the Ptarmigan Tunnel portion of the hike at: http://enjoyyourparks.com/GlacierParkPt ... unnel.html

Note: This route requires extensive transportation planning. Shuttle service is available to the trailhead at Chief Mountain. However, the Kintla Lake exit at the end of the Inside North Fork Road is one of the most remote areas of the park and is not served by any park transportation. Unless pick-up arrangements have been made, it will be necessary to leave a vehicle at the exit before beginning your trip. This process requires two vehicles (one to leave, the other to drive back out) and as much as a full day to accomplish. More information on the Inside North Fork Road at: http://enjoyyourparks.com/GlacierParkNorthForkArea.html

• Gunsight Lake / Lake Ellen Wilson – This popular route begins at the Jackson Glacier overlook on the eastern side of the GTTS Road. It travels southward and includes one night at scenic Gunsight Lake (6.2 miles, climbs 500 feet), a 1,670-foot climb over Gunsight Pass and a steep 1,017-foot descent to the campground at beautiful Lake Ellen Wilson (5.0 miles). From there, the trail climbs 1,120 feet to Lincoln Pass followed by a steep descent past Sperry Chalet and a long forested descent to the GTTS Road directly across from Lake McDonald Lodge (9.1 miles from Lake Ellen Wilson and 3,382 feet total descent from the top of Lincoln Pass). The route covers 20.3 total miles and typically is hiked over three days and two nights (a third night at Sperry Chalet is an option). Ambitious day hikers can complete the entire route in a single long day.

Hikers using this route may leave a car at Jackson Glacier overlook and return to their vehicle via the hiker shuttle from Lake McDonald Lodge.

Worthwhile side hikes along this route include a 3.6-mile round trip visit to Jackson Glacier from the Gunsight Lake campsite and a steep and strenuous 1,600-foot climb from Sperry Chalet to the foot of Sperry Glacier (approximately seven miles round trip).

More information and photos of this route available at: http://enjoyyourparks.com/GlacierParkGunsightPass.html

There are many more backcountry route combinations and camp sites available throughout the park. A map of Glacier’s backcountry trails and camp sites is located at: http://home.nps.gov/applications/glac/b ... bcmap.html.

[Tnissen]

Thanks for all the info. Makes researching vastly easier.

Another couple of questions: If we did the Kintla to Goat Haunt Boulder Pass route, would it likely be open in mid-July; and how hard is it to get a ride or shuttle back to the car in Kintla? Thanks.

[mikie]

Another couple of questions: If we did the Kintla to Goat Haunt Boulder Pass route, would it likely be open in mid-July; and how hard is it to get a ride or shuttle back to the car in Kintla?

Simple answer, No. Boulder Pass and Hole-in-the-Wall route usually doesn't open until August 1st or later. I am presuming that you are talking about the loop between Bowman Lake and Kintla Lake. Getting back-and-forth between Bowman lake and Kintla Lake is difficult. Figure about a 25 mile walk. Often you can hitch a ride, but no guarantee. There is NO shuttle. Getting from West Glacier to the North Fork is difficult too. No shuttle there too. You have to pay someone to take you there if you don't have a rental car. I think it is $240 one-way.

If you rent a car, you can hike from Bowman Lake to Goat Haunt and back. This too is a nice hike. But, not as nice as the loop. It depends upon the amount of snow we will get in the next month or two. Personally, I would pick something different then the North Fork.

I would recommend looking at the GNP Backcountry Guide. It will list the normal opening date for some of the backcountry camp sites. Unfortunately the 2013 guide split the map in half, which makes it difficult to use. they have not uploaded the 2014 Backcountry Guide yet.

Here is a suggestion: St Mary > REH > ATL > NON > TMC. When you get to Two Medicine you can do Scenic Point on day 5. Triple Divide Pass and the Dawson-Pitamakan Pass is very nice. But, you have to remember that some of those campgrounds open 7/15. There may be snow on the Dawson-Pitamakan pass route. There is a shuttle from Two Medicine back to St Mary's, but I don't know the details.

[pitamakan]

In the past, the Park Service has taken campsite reservations for Boulder Pass for camp dates starting on August 1, so unless something extraordinary happens it's a pretty safe bet that the route will be open by then at the latest. Though it depends on snowmelt, the campsites up there will nearly always open sometime in the last half of July, and be available for people getting walk-up permits. That's usually the easiest time to get a permit up there, and it's one of the most glorious spots in the park.

Transportation into the North Fork country is a major challenge, though. While you can sometimes find a local in Polebridge willing to help out for a fee, that's definitely not guaranteed, and hitchhiking is problematic just because of the very small number of cars going to Kintla. Without access to a second vehicle, I would plan a Boulder Pass trip as an out-and-back hike, which is absolutely fine ... it's amazing how different the trails look hiking in the opposite direction!

Mark

[Sue Z]

I did the Kintla to Bowman "almost loop" with some friends in September. We handled the shuttling problem by renting two cars. I put in some very low bids on Priceline, so it was worth it. It also gives you some flexibility for day hikes during your stay.

[Tnissen]

Thanks for the responses and generosity in sharing ideas and experiences. Double car rental -- that's an idea. I thought I would also see if there are any enterprising locals who would do a car shuttle from Bowman to Lake Kintla. If anybody has heard of this, please pass it along.

[Tnissen]

Does anyone have views on this route? Two Medicine - NON -OLD- ATL - REH - St Mary?

Several of the days are on the shorter side, but it would seem to capture good stretches of the area.

[mikie]

You can try googling triple divide pass and Dawson Pitamakon traverse under google images. You can also search this forum for trip reports for Red Eagle Lake, Triple Divide Pass, and the Dawson-Pitamaken loop.

You could also start at the head of St Mary Lake and pick up Virginia Falls and St Mary Falls with a nice view of the lake. This would add some miles. Also, the Dawson-Pitamakan traverse is significant hike with a pack, so don't be fooled by the miles there. The Dawson-Pitamakan loop is one of the best hikes in the park. The views are spectacular on a good day. On some of the easier days, there are some side trips worth taking.

If you can give me an idea of the number of miles per day you would like to do, I can give you some alternate options.

[paul]

Does anyone have views on this route? Two Medicine - NON -OLD- ATL - REH - St Mary?

Several of the days are on the shorter side, but it would seem to capture good stretches of the area.

I think the general route might be interesting however ATL isn't a very good BC site.

[pitamakan]

That's a route that was historically called the "Inside Trail," and there's some great country along the way. (The original Inside Trail started at Glacier Park Lodge, and went to Two Medicine via Scenic Point before continuing north.) If I were doing the trip I'd probably cut a day or two out of the itinerary, though.

The southern part of the hike is the most spectacular, and none of the campgrounds north of Pitamakan Pass would be on my list of park favorites. A forest fire hit a good chunk of the Red Eagle drainage several years ago, as well.

Mark

[Jay w]

I'd say the popular routes are ones that are difficult to do as day hikes. So the Boulder Pass/Hole in the Wall route (Kintla/Bowman) with variations including Goat Haunt or Chief Mt. Another would be Belly River trips (out and back). And then routes along the Highline Trail or if you want some real privacy, the southern part of the park. It's more interesting to do loops, but then you have to figure out transportation (since the park doesn't offer that for the most part). One loop where you could use shuttles is Gunsight Pass. It's beautiful, but Jackson Glacier overlook to Lake McDonald is only 21 miles (as I remember) and used as a day hike. Considering it's your first trip and one car, I suggest investigating Belly River. One option for Kintla/Bowman loop is to bring a bike to complete the 20 mile shuttle (that's what I did last summer). The Hole-in-the-Wall permits are hard to get, and Belly River pretty popular, so if you're doing a walk up permit, know exactly what you're doing. (This group has posted in the info previously.)

Jay

[smahurin]

Does anyone have views on this route? Two Medicine - NON -OLD- ATL - REH - St Mary?

Several of the days are on the shorter side, but it would seem to capture good stretches of the area.

That's a nice route. I did that as a 3-day two summers ago (2med-ATL-REH-St Mary). It picks up dawson/pitamakan which is one of the most spectacular areas of the park and also tacks of triple divide pass which is a very enjoyable area. The good thing about that route is that its typically easier to snag a permit on than some of the ultra popular routes (gunsight variations/ boulder pass variations) while still being an incredible trip.

[Tnissen]

If you can give me an idea of the number of miles per day you would like to do, I can give you some alternate options.

I am looking at 6-10 miles a day. We've picked up a fourth member, a 15-year-old who has less hiking experience than the rest of us. Given that and the altitude change for us flatlanders, I'm trying to be mindful of not over-doing things.

[mattB]

Does anyone have views on this route? Two Medicine - NON -OLD- ATL - REH - St Mary?

Several of the days are on the shorter side, but it would seem to capture good stretches of the area.

I haven't done that route, but I've looked at it a lot!! It seems like it could be a good trip, without any real bad days, maybe with the exception of the ATL-REH day, which would be the longest day and up over Triple Divide Pass..

The main difficulty I've run into to do that route is the logistics of start and end.. The timing of the east side shuttle doesn't seem to work very well... I think the best plan I came up with was to leave a car at the St Mary's Visitor Center and catch the East Side Shuttle to Two Medicine and camp that night in the Two Medicine Campground. Then start the backpacking part the next day. The trip would end at teh St Mary's trailhead, which is a mile or two from the Visitors Center, but you could drop the packs and go get the car and come back for the packs, or send one person to go get the car if people didn't feel like hiking on to the Visitors Center..

The other difficulty I had with that route, is that I was trying to figure out a way to add in a scramble up to Triple Divide Peak, but that would add 2-4 hours on top of the longest most difficult day? Its not impossible, but would make for a long day. I guess another option would be to add two nights at either ATL or REH and do a day hike up to Triple Divide Peak?

I think it would be a good route, and since its a bit off the more popular routes it might be easier to snag a permit..