Better to sail w/torn sails than to not sail at all

Well, tell us how your trip went. We all want to hear about your special experience.

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Re: Better to sail w/torn sails than to not sail at all

Post by Jay w »

Sat, Aug 31st

Phones
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I picked up a $10 phone card as I gassed up before leaving town. My carrier (T-Mobile) has roughly three cell towers in Montana, so the only way to connect is using the phones by the camp store. The problem is, the phones grab a buck and a quarter per connection. Even though the phones say, “Phones do not accept incoming calls,” one of the two phones does. Via that phone, I was getting phone calls from Julie and Pete during the trip. Pete and I were working out coordinating a hike, but he also informed me that Todd and company were doing Grinnell Glacier today. I had planned on heading to “Oh Canada,” but switched my plans to:

Hike: Angle’s Wing
Distance: Longer that Grinnell Glacier
Elevation: Damn right it’s uphill

If you’re wondering why I don’t list the hike’s actual distance and elevation, it’s because I don’t know those details. (grin.) In fact, I’m somewhat remiss about looking at maps….ok, I don’t look at maps unless it’s a brand new hike, and even then I may forget to look at a map.
So, the rough idea was to hike Angel’s Wing and maybe on the return trip, run into Todd and Co. Grinnell Glacier is a hike I’ve done many times, but I usually hike it half way. I love the view over Grinnell Lake, and I’ll photograph it kind of like photographing sunrise at Swiftcurrent Lake. That is, I’m hoping for some spectacular lighting to make a very nice scene something really special. Today the lighting was mostly blue skies,

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so I skipped over my normal photography grounds

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and headed for the Glacier.

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Once at the Glacier, I ran into a metal box that appeared to house some sensing equipment. I’ve never seen this on previous trips.

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I looked up at Angel’s Wing and groaned. It looked like a long ways up and the body wasn’t quite sure it was ready for that. All I could think of was one of the garage concrete saying, “Dude, this is a lot of work.” And he said it over and over again. Well, I haven’t come this far to wimp out.
The hike to the peak itself is a walk up. After crossing the creek, the rocks show what looks like bubbling mud that turned to rock. Interesting stuff.

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Up, up, up, and pictures.

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So once you’re on top, then there’s the view over the edge that messes with the gut. What if I would run off that ledge….or slip on rocks as I grab for my camera that got blown over by the wind? What if…

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You can see a boat down there trolling for shrimp.

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These were the ones where I had to be careful with the footing and movements. I’m pretty much looking down.

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After getting back to the glacier area, I just trucked it back non-stop with no sign of the Todd Co.

Showers
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Today would be my first shower since getting to Glacier w eeek ago. Yeah, that’s kind of strange for someone who showers daily. I couldn’t find the showers at Kinta and Hole in the Wall. After a swim in Bowman, I didn’t need a shower (even though I had a token) at Johnson’s. The Snow Moon hike was slow and cool enough for a wash cloth. When I finally did take a shower, it was luke warm and weak. After a couple trips with the magic shower, it was a disappointing way start to paying for showers. I said something in the campstore, and she pretty much said, “That’s strange.” The next day, a guy came out of the shower I used and I asked him if the shower was warm. “Yeah, it was great.” I told him about the shower the day before and he handed me a token. “When you check in they give you a ridiculous number of tokens.” My shower was also great….finally.
That evening, Todd and Ryan stopped by and we arranged details for tomorrow’s hike. Todd mentioned something about the fire and being in for the night, and said they have one going too. I got a sinking feeling and thought about the “five year probation.” Anyway, Pete, Todd and Co, and I’d rendezvous at Logan for a hike.

Jay
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Re: Better to sail w/torn sails than to not sail at all

Post by TnTammy »

Those Glacier Blues! :arrow: :arrow: :arrow:

Beautiful, beautiful pics Jay!! Glad you included so many in color. Really love that shot from Angel Wing looking down. :shock:

Bubbling mud....stromatolites? I think we saw some on the way up Swiftcurrent Pass.
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Re: Better to sail w/torn sails than to not sail at all

Post by mikie »

Great pictures. Do like the view from Angel Wing.
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Re: Better to sail w/torn sails than to not sail at all

Post by Sue Z »

Love the rock circles.
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Re: Better to sail w/torn sails than to not sail at all

Post by Jay w »

Sun, Sep 1
Hike: Logan to Many Glacier via the Picnic Table Labyrinth
Distance: 13.28 miles (13-15 miles, somewhere in there)
Elevation: Down (yeah really)

Slow around here.

Part of last night’s conversation with Todd was asking if I could tag along on the hike and then having the guts to ask if I could hitch a ride. Todd was gracious enough to oblige and quick enough to realize the hike I had in mind.

The drive was entertaining, and after entering the park at St. Mary, we followed a coyote for a while on the road. After that we made a quick stop at Honker Island.

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At Logan Pass, I got dropped off and met with Pete. We caught up for a while, and then I told a pretty good joke. Since it’s a little racy, I won’t repeat it here, but the thing that makes it funny is making a semi-pissed off face, pointing a finger up and saying in a Scottish/Irish accent, “Just one goat.” Pete, and a guy listening in got a good laugh before the Todd Co. group arrived back and we started the hike to Granite Park.

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Todd and Ryan were out front, then Emma, Sue and Kathy, and Pete and I brought up the rear. Pete and I can talk about anything, fiscal policy, lead shot, the demise of western civilization, dry-down bags, Hammer gels, trouble shooting electronics, whatever, Pete always has something intelligent to say. Then I walked with Kathy for a while and the talk was more about kids and sports, xc running, and skiing.

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At Granite Park I checked out the second story and the space was taken. Pete and I sat at the east facing tables and were talking about the MG hotel employees dying and another guy listening in said (in so many words) that he thinks these guys have watched too many penis enlargement commercials and now they’re comparing results. Pete said, “Yeah, but I think one of the guys fell while backing up to take a picture.” And so the conversation went. Another guy came up and asked about our hike and it was saw any bears or anything. Pete gave him the lowdown on the hike and said we didn’t see any wildlife, “Well a goat.” That’s when I screwed up my face, pointed a finger in the air and said in a Scottish/Irish accent, “Just one goat.” We all roared, even the guy not in on the joke. Pete explained that too.

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The Todd Co. was over photographing shoes, and I figured I better at least pull out my camera today.

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At this point, the rest of the gang was heading towards the loop and I was heading back to camp. Mentally I was a little tired and not particularly looking for pictures. I stopped and talked to a few people along the way, but mainly just cranked up the pace and headed back to camp. No bears, no moose, not even one goat.

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Eating at Swiftcurrent
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Of course I had few meals at Swiftcurrent and it’s interesting listening to their music selection and running into the same waiters year after year. I walked in one day and they had “Real Love” playing by Michael McDonald. Wow, I haven’t heard that since the 80s. I loved Michael back when he was with the Doobie Brothers and followed him into his first solo album. At some point, I had “Real Love” on tape, but lost track of his music as did most other people it seems. I ordered dinner and Max was the waiter, and they played a series of California, easy listening tunes, but good ones. Max is a trip. He comes off really intense, but that’s just his nature. We talked about various hikes around the park and he was looking to pick a permit this fall for a back country trip.

The next time I walked into the restaurant, they were playing a Dead song. Not just any Dead, but live Dead, old live Dead. After I sat down, the radio said, “That was 1984 Portland, thanks for listening to another episode of the Grateful Dead radio hour.” Damn, I would have enjoyed that. Then the station changed to something much more boring and a few minutes later, to something more interesting.

I said to John (Jon?) that I was enjoying the Dead and we talked a bit about their station selection. (I assume it’s satellite radio.) After having John as a waiter one evening a couple years ago, I ran into him and his buddy at Ptarmegan Tunnel and he’s a very relaxed guy, kind of the opposite of Max. After my meal, John and I talked about hiking and he said I had to check out the Nyack and Beaver Woman Lake in particular. I haven’t heard much talk about that area of the park.

That’s it for today,

Jay
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Re: Better to sail w/torn sails than to not sail at all

Post by paul »

After my meal, John and I talked about hiking and he said I had to check out the Nyack and Beaver Woman Lake in particular. I haven’t heard much talk about that area of the park.
That area is on my list as well. Skipped it this year but someday I'll check it out.
...
It's interesting to hear that Pete is still talking to some people on this page but not others. :roll:
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Re: Better to sail w/torn sails than to not sail at all

Post by mikie »

As always, great pictures. Looks like a real nice day for the Highline Trail.
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Re: Better to sail w/torn sails than to not sail at all

Post by Jay w »

Mon, Sep 2nd

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I loaded up the bike and headed for a hike that’s been on the radar for years. I found the trailhead (I’ll have you guess where), then headed for a quick pitstop before coming back and unloading. A ways into the hike, I got off the bike (took a mental note on where the bike was), and hiked maybe 200 yards to a berm looking for a landmark.

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Nope, not there. I rode a bit further and repeated looking for the landmark.

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Nope, not there. Finally I found what I was looking for.

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So, today’s hike was Crypt Lake, but without the boat.

-Hike: Crypt Lake
-Distance: roughly 10 miles (round trip) by bike and 8 miles (round trip) hiking
-Elevation: A lot more up than expected. Has to be around 2000 ft anyway.

On the map (yup, I looked at one), It looks like you can mt bike at least to the campsite along Middle Waterton and maybe to Crypt Lake boat landing. I’m basing that on where the little picture of a mt. bike is and assuming they put the mt bike in the middle of the trail’s length. The trail? Bosporus, but who’s ever heard of that.

You might remember that Dave C did this hike earlier this year, and I think he understated the stress of biking through grizzly country. There are open fields, but most of the trail winds through forest where the sight lines are pretty narrow or really narrow. It would be easy to be cruising along at 10 mph and come across a bear 20 ft away that’s tucked in the brush. From my experience hiking up at Kintla, I know that bears sometimes don’t care (or don’t hear) you coming, and the last thing I want is to T-bone a bear. So I was doing a lot of yelling nonsense.

After passing the Vimy Peak Trail, which is clearly marked “No Biking,” there were sections of the trail that were “trenched” and I was catching pedals on the sides of the trail. Between that, crossing dry stream beds and not really being sure if I should be mt. biking this far back, I locked up the bike out of sight in the woods. (This involves taking off the front wheel. I realize no one will probably take my bike, but in its day it was a fairly pricey bike and I’d be screwed if someone took a front wheel.) After hiking another few hundred yards down a smooth section of trail perfect for biking, I went back and grabbed my bike to continue biking.

There are about six sections of the trail with dried stream beds filled with scree. It looks like there are some big flows of water in the spring. A few of these are rideable if you want the challenge, but after about three, I abandoned the bike again. From here it was about 3/4th of a mile to the campground. At that point, there is a “Y” in the trail and there’s no way to ride a bike further, hell, it’s not even easy walking. By the map, it’s only about 1.5 miles to the boat landing, but with a ridge or two, rocks, and overgrowth (it’s worth gaiters), it definitely hikes longer.

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At the boat landing, I was expecting a trail something like Iceberg Lake, but the trail does a series of climbs over ridges before finally making the long ascent to Crypt Lake. It was dry as could be (the trail has some dirt resembling flour), but I can imagine the streams are really beautiful when the water is running.

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I’m sure you’ve heard that this trail involves a ladder and tunnel. The tunnel is narrow enough that I ran had to take off my pack and I ran my shoulder into overhead rock a few times. (Yeah, it left a mark.)

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Finally, I made it to the lake and had some lunch.

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When I started thinking about my water supply, I started getting worried I was short. Damn, I should have thrown a bottle on the bike. Even though it wasn’t that warm, the humidity made me sweat like a pig (Waterton seems warmer than Glacier the times I’ve been there). My white shirt was soaked, and after putting on a dusty pack a number of times, I ended up ruining the shirt. (It was a new one from North Carolina.) Anyway, I took a few pictures on the way down,

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and then I just cranked it up and headed home.

Fortunately, there was a light rain keeping things cool on the way home, but I wasn’t sure if the skies would open up. As I flew through the boat landing, I got empty stares from people like cows looking at a passing train. Oh yeah, there are a couple of “critter cams” near the boat launch and trail head. I found one of the cameras after taking a leak. The rain pants went on and off since the brush was wet.

Another thing Dave said in his write up was that it’s down hill on the way home. Yeah! I think my mind was so preoccupied with bears on the way out that I didn’t realize I was climbing. On the way home I just said screw it and let ‘er roll. I rode quite a few sections at 15-20 mph screaming like a baby. With calm winds, I wondered if people having tea at the hotel were wondering what the hell was going on in the woods over there. “MOVE OVER SMALL BEARS, THE BIG DOG IS COMING THROUGH.”

Time to get out was 3.5 hrs and damn it felt good to get out. For some reason, this hike left a mark. Maybe it was the lack of food, the lack of water, a long day on the trail or the stress of riding through griz country, but I was glad to be out of the woods. Really glad.

It was no problem with the boarder crossings! I guess my five day beard was “pre-terrorist” length.

Jay
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Re: Better to sail w/torn sails than to not sail at all

Post by toddnick »

Just getting caught up on your report...which is awesome so far...

Love the shots on the way up to Angel Wing...not sure how we missed you...

Could you e-mail me the shot of my family doing the "foot thing"....
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Re: Better to sail w/torn sails than to not sail at all

Post by Jay w »

Todd, I was too slow on Angel's Wing. I got up there before you and you got down before me. Oh well. Hope your mailbox holds a 10 mb file.

Jay

PS, I finally bought a framing nailer today. A bit late....

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Re: Better to sail w/torn sails than to not sail at all

Post by Jay w »

Preface
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Just a couple comments. As I said earlier, my laptop died, so in order to use Photoshop, I need to use the desktop. Photoshop on the desktop has a corrupted file, so it needs to be re-loaded. Sigh. Geezsh Jay, maybe it’s because you’re running XP. Piss off, I like XP. (This is how conversations go with myself.) Yesterday I received a box so I can try using my hard drive from the dead laptop. That will not only allow me to use the laptop (with two external drives—one for Photoshop and one for the files—but also deactivate (I hope) Photoshop on that hard drive so I can load it up on a new machine. ..whenever I buy that.

Second thing is I’ve been working on a garage, Yesterday I was working installing tongue and groove into the ceiling of the porch (on the garage) when I realized the board was up-side-down. I didn’t know T&G had sides. So I spent the afternoon priming the wrong side of sixteen 6”x16’ boards. Sigh. Fortunately, I had only fired nails into one board before realizing the problem. Still…

Ok, where were we.
Tue, Sep 3rd

The original plan was to hike Shangri-La and then go check out Iceberg Notch. I know I’d never climb the whole thing, but I was wondering if I could get up far enough for an interesting view. On my first trip to Glacier, I looked at Swiftcurrent Pass from Bullhead Lake and wondered how anyone would hike that thing. Maybe the Notch is similar. The problem was, I was trashed and the body needed a day off.

In the afternoon, I grabbed my flash and headed for my favorite easy hike, one that I’m now calling the Devil’s Bone Yard (with a nod to John Fogerty). I have never used a flash for nature photos, in fact I haven’t used a flash since the days of the Nikon FE, and I read that my Vivitar 283 would actually damage my DSLR. So, an $80 Youngnuo replacing the Vivitar.

This is a B&W hike, but since some people really dislike B&W, I left a few in color. These photos are difficult since most times the subject is light compared to a dark background. With white rock, that means trees are dark in a light background. Here’s what I got.

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Note: It’s hard to put into words how much I hate Photobucket because it’s so slow and scrambles your photos. If anyone has a suggestion, I’m all ears.

Anyway, this is a hike that few people do or talk about. Too simple I guess, but I love it as (usually) an evening hike in the shade. Today’s clouds provided an opportunity to shoot in higher light conditions.

Jay
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Re: Better to sail w/torn sails than to not sail at all

Post by paul »

Note: It’s hard to put into words how much I hate Photobucket because it’s so slow and scrambles your photos. If anyone has a suggestion, I’m all ears.
I use google's photo storage. I don't have any major complaints so far.

Where is this Devil's Bone Yard place? It looks a little like the hike up to Scenic Point.

-Paul
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Re: Better to sail w/torn sails than to not sail at all

Post by pitamakan »

paul wrote:
Note: It’s hard to put into words how much I hate Photobucket because it’s so slow and scrambles your photos. If anyone has a suggestion, I’m all ears.
I use google's photo storage. I don't have any major complaints so far.
Yep, I use Google's Picasa service for lower-res photos that I use on the web. It's straightforward and solid, with unlimited free storage for web-sized photos.

I've started putting higher-res photos on 500px.com. You need to pay for some of the features there, but the site has started introducing some fairly cool portfolio templates.
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Re: Better to sail w/torn sails than to not sail at all

Post by Jay w »

paul wrote: I use google's photo storage. I don't have any major complaints so far.

Where is this Devil's Bone Yard place? It looks a little like the hike up to Scenic Point.

-Paul
Head for Appikuni Falls and take a right.

Jay

Julie wants a dancing banana. :arrow: :arrow:
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Re: Better to sail w/torn sails than to not sail at all

Post by Jay w »

One last installment. To do the Floral Park hike, I needed to transfer campgrounds since the Sun road would not open until 7am. So, I tore down camp,

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and headed for the unfamiliar west side (with exactly one stop on the way).

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I camped at Apgar (a first), and after setting up camp I headed for Avalanche Gorge.

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I wasn’t too keen on heading for Avalanche Lake because I couldn’t think of a new photo. (That’s my body saying, “Hey old man, there’s a big hike tomorrow.” The gorge is another spot similar to yesterday’s location in that it’s really fun to shoot but doesn’t really give up great shots easily.

In more laziness, I swung by the “Lodge” for a burger, but the restaurant was closed. That left three vultures circling for road kill in the bar. Ok, it was a couple and then me waiting for a table. A WI couple that camped next to me at MG was seated at a table and said “Hi” so I sat at their table and thanked them for the rice milk they left behind. This conveniently jumped me in line for a quicker beer. As they were leaving, another couple wanted to know if “we” were leaving and I invited them to sit at the table. They were from MPLS and we had a long talk about everything under the sun. One particular topic was a spider bite their young relative got while (a best guess as to when the bite happened) kayaking in a boat that had been unused for a while. The resulting problems were quite serious. I think is was a brown recluse, which is an odd spider for MT.

Back at camp I had another great conversation with Pete, a roaring fire with the last of the lumber, and it was off to bed.

I was up stupid early, like 5 am, packed up and drove to McDonald Lodge to meet Todd for the Floral Park hike. I had breakfast in the car, changed clothes, packed my pack, emptied the water from the cooler, repacked the car and it was 6:30 am. Before sunrise I took a few photos.
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Todd and I were supposed to meet at 6:30 and it was nearing 7 am, so I walked over to the other (west) parking lot and ran into Todd. Normally, Todd gives 15 minutes, and then he’s off. I feel honored that he gave me 33 minutes without leaving. Maybe it was that Appikuni hike last year…or that fact that I had been straight with him for the last year that I was doing this hike. Anyway, we crossed wires on exactly where to meet (my fault), but we dropped off gear for the mule ride to Sperry (my sleeping bag) and were like hockey players getting the puck outta there.

Pass the popcorn, we’ve all seen this movie (in Todd’s trip report), so I’ll just show (nearly all the) pictures taken with a cheap pocket camera. No Photoshop BTW.

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I was pretty clueless about Sperry Chalet. I thought the place had showers (and man did I need one), and I thought I needed a sleeping bag (and man, I didn’t need one). The vibe in the dining room was electric. People were jazzed to be there and the people who go through the trouble to get there usually have some good stories to tell. Each of the employees told a short summary of their choosing, and then the guests had their turn. Mine included something like…a trip each year for the last dozen years, this year I started with a backpack trip, and I was the other guy on the hike with him (pointing at Todd and grinning).

After a couple glasses of wine with Todd and guests, I returned to the dining room for a couple cups of hot chocolate and stories with a family from Texas.

I was still pretty wired from everything that day, so I knew getting to sleep would be tough…and that’s why Z-quil in tablet form was a smart item to pack. In spite of drugs, I found my room has 15 boards on each wall with an open ceiling with balloon log framing. In other words, I couldn’t sleep. After peeing before going to bed, I peed four, yes four times during the night. I never get up to pee during the night. What’s up with that? And yes, since I give a rats ass about other people, I walked very quietly down the stairs to the pisser each time.

For breakfast, I ate everything on the menu…really. On the hike down (after passing Rich and his gang), I ran into a ranger. I’ll skip the details and say this is not the ranger you want coming to look for you when you’re reported missing. She had a point in that you need to be self-sufficient, but life is full of imperfections and unforeseeable events. I cut people some slack.

From there it was: empty the bladder, fill the tank and a long drive east.

Jay
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