GNP 2022 - LPE to SBE (the long way)

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zozeppelin
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GNP 2022 - LPE to SBE (the long way)

Post by zozeppelin »

Took my dad on the northern loop (extended). Struck out on the lottery, but was able to secure the exact itinerary I wanted later when someone must have cancelled: GRN-FIF-GLH-HEL-MAN in late September.

I was hoping to finally make it to Margaret Lake and Helen. As time drew closer, the weather turned colder and wetter, so we modified upon arrival to be a little more reasonable by giving up the side trips.

Final Itinerary:
ENTER - LOGAN PASS (TRAILHEAD)

9-19-2022 - GRN - GRANITE
Fires; NO
Segment; Length 7.80
Elevation; Up 1902 | Down 2134

9-20-2022 - FIF - FIFTY MOUNTAIN
Fires; NO
Segment; Length 11.9
Elevation; Up 2983 | Down 2773

9-21-2022 - STO - STONEY
Fires; NO
Segment; Length 8.2
Elevation; Up 1725| Down 2800

9-22-2022 - ELF - Elizabeth Lake Foot
Fires; NO
Segment; Length 14.4
Elevation; Up 1290| Down 2708

9-23-2022 - MAN - MANY GLACIER
Fires; YES
Segment; Length 10.1
Elevation; Up 2660| Down 2617

EXIT - SIYEH BEND (TRAILHEAD)
Segment; Length 13.8
Elevation; Up 3039| Down 2137

TOTALS;
Trip length 66.2 miles
Elevation up 13,599 feet
Elevation down 15,169 feet

Original (for reference):
ENTER - LOGAN PASS (TRAILHEAD)

9-19-2022 - GRN - GRANITE
Fires; NO
Segment; Length 7.80
Elevation; Up 1902 | Down 2134

9-20-2022 - FIF - FIFTY MOUNTAIN
Fires; NO
Segment; Length 11.90
Elevation; Up 1910 | Down 1780

9-21-2022 - GLH - GLENNS HEAD
Fires; NO
Segment; Length 14.30
Elevation; Up 2725 | Down 5248

9-22-2022 - HEL - HELEN LAKE
Fires; NO
Segment; Length 12.60
Elevation; Up 1204 | Down 980

9-23-2022 - MAN - MANY GLACIER
Fires; YES
Segment; Length 14.40
Elevation; Up 2831 | Down 2990

EXIT - SIYEH BEND (TRAILHEAD)
Segment; Length 13.80
Elevation; Up 2190 | Down 3096


TOTALS;
Trip length 74.80 miles
Elevation up 12,762 feet
Elevation down 16,228 feet


If you look closely, the elevation number's don't make sense. I think they're both wrong, ha. Many to Siyeh Bend on the original is backwards (should be more up than down), and Granite to Fifty Mountain seems excessive on the actual permit. And of course none of these match the last time I did the circle.
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Re: GNP 2022 - LPE to SBE (the long way)

Post by zozeppelin »

Day 1
9-19-2022 - GRN - GRANITE
Fires; NO
Segment; Length 7.80
Elevation; Up 1902 | Down 2134
Bear locker: no

Weather outlook:
Day 1: A chance of showers. Partly sunny, with a high near 47.
Night 1: Showers likely, mainly after midnight. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 31.
Day 2:Rain and snow showers likely before 9am, then snow showers likely between 9am and 3pm, then a chance of rain and snow showers after 3pm. Snow level 7100 feet lowering to 6500 feet in the afternoon . Mostly cloudy, with a high near 35.
Night 2: A chance of rain and snow showers. Snow level 6600 feet. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 30.
Day 3:A slight chance of rain and snow showers. Snow level rising to 6800 feet in the afternoon. Partly sunny, with a high near 39.
Night 4:Partly cloudy, with a low around 31.
Day 5: A slight chance of rain and snow showers. Snow level 6900 feet rising to 8000 feet in the afternoon. Mostly sunny, with a high near 44

No long logistics post this time, pretty much a circle. Parked the car at Siyeh Bend and hitched back up to Logan Pass. It was just me, without pack, in a slight rain, and nobody wanted anything to do with it. My dad jokingly made me a Logan Pass sign, which I didn't attempt to use, but eventually went back to the car and finally someone stopped, looking for directions more than to pick me up, but it worked and off we went.

One logistics note is that we stayed in Whitefish again and finally ventured downtown for dinner. Ate at Tupelo and had the Elk meatloaf - really good. I'm sure the locals are laughing at me for being a cliché tourist, but it was a nice change from the usual chain food around NW Kalispell.

On the conditioning front, not good again. Haven't gotten back to the gym yet since Covid, but have been working out around the house, but that is no substitute for a stairclimber. Using the kid + carrier to break in my feet with the boots walking to and from the playground.

Obligatory picture of this years liquid pain relief and heater:
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Usually I skip all the side trips because I get lazy and tired, but this time I was determined to hit Grinnell overlook, Ahern pass, and Sue overlook - all firsts for me.

So off we went, pretty foggy and rainy most of the first day. The highline is always a nice warmup (or cooldown) into the backcountry, as it's pretty easy and has views for days.

So off we went.
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Obligatory cable hold picture.
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After some negotiating, I was able to convince the party to go to Grinnell Glacier overlook.
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And it was awesome, very tiring for the first day will a full pack, but very awesome. I had never seen it before, so very cool and we're off to a good start.
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And that's a wrap. By the time we arrived, the campground was full (minus our spot). There was a mix of CDT crew going north (2 sites?) and another crew completing the northern circle (2 sites?). The former didn't fit the typical mold for CDT'ers near the end (malnourished and scraggly), so was curious if they were doing sections but didn't ask as to not offend. The latter were cold and wet from the day. One group ran out of fuel, I offered to use our stove but they just decided to cold soak oatmeal for the morning.
Last edited by zozeppelin on Sat Mar 11, 2023 1:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: GNP 2022 - LPE to SBE (the long way)

Post by zozeppelin »

Day 2

9-20-2022 - FIF - FIFTY MOUNTAIN
Fires; NO
Segment; Length 11.9
Elevation; Up 2983 | Down 2773
Bear box: yes and no!

And, welcome to winter!
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I'm slowly wearing down over the years and giving in to 'creature comforts'. This year's improvement was .... gloves! Usually some choice words and blowing hot air into my hands are enough to keep me going while taking down a cold and wet tent, but no more! Anyways, well appreciated this year, and a full recommendation to Outdoor Research Versaliner. Just doing try and light your stove with them because they do melt...

The plan today was Ahern Pass (and beyond?) and Sue Lake Overlook, but didn't want to mess with the snow. Some nice pictures though:
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Grinnell overlook gassed the group, so it was a solo mission up to Sue Lake Overlook. I had been up there previously in dense fog (zero visibility) in hopes of seeing something across the divide, but no luck. But this time, not a clear sky but it was awesome!
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I struggled to find the right frame as there was so much to take it. My interest was fixed on looking over the bench into Stoney Indian and Pyramid Peak (pretty sure).
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And when in doubt, just go pano:
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I met a CDT'er up there who had passed us earlier - he was up there facetiming his mom! Nice guy. So on the way back down, we had a full house at Fifty. Site was already secured upon arrival. At site there were 3 rangers, with horses, there to tear up the bear box due to the locking / opening mechanism failing (I guess a hiker did an SOS as they couldn't get it open). There was also another group there upon arrival. Later another group arrived from KOO(?), they were some scout leaders from Georgia, they were really nice, but had a good laugh at my trust old MSR liquid fuel stove. One guy was my dad's age, so they commiserated well. Then the CDT'ers arrived, some with a site, others not.

So the story goes, the backcountry office told the 'extra' CDT'ers they would need to setup at the hitch rail area. With the horses there, that probably didn't make sense. So then they just scouted around and asked the rangers if they could just setup in our site and the rangers agreed. I really didn't like this at all, I get it if that was the best option - but at least ask us, which no one bothered to do. So we had another 3x 2 person tents at our site, really sucked and shouldn't have happened.

Side note, the hitching posts have their own bear boxes, which the rangers used. So we were then left with like 20 people to put all their stuff on a bear hang, just an absolute tanged disaster - people were having to double up on hooks because the 6 or 8 wasn't enough.

Finally, when I was getting water, I was joined by a friend. Side note is that later in the season Fifty is dry, and the main stream is about 1/4 mile north of site, but if you trace upriver a bit by the site, there will be water. I learned this last trip when someone who had been coming there for years told me. Anyways, momma and cub were trying to dig out something, I presume marmots. One of the CDT hikers came upon them and just sat there ... for about 10 minutes ... didn't now what to do as he had never seen a bear before ?! Anyways, interesting group.
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Not a fan of horses on the trail - having them poop all over the trail and having to get out of the way when hiking makes for miserable conditions. I get it, they were the only means to travel initially, and the rangers need them for carrying supplies and being able to cover large areas for checking up (like Belly River), but just don't like them. The CDT hiker thing really rubbed me the wrong way as well how that went down.
Last edited by zozeppelin on Sat Mar 11, 2023 2:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: GNP 2022 - LPE to SBE (the long way)

Post by zozeppelin »

Day 3
9-21-2022 - STO - STONEY
Fires; NO
Segment; Length 8.2
Elevation; Up 1725| Down 2800
Bear Box: yes (finally!)

Cold as expected, but dry so I'll take it. I like hiking in the (relative) cold as I don't overheat, that is once my feet thaw out. Today was a bit of a defeat from the original plan to go to Glenn's head, so expected a relatively easy day. Plan was to make it to Stoney for lunch.

One other modification this year was instant coffee, where previous years I'd bring a grinder and french press. While so much more convenient from a pack weight/space, preparation time, and cleanup (grounds, containers), I think I'm going to backtrack on that one.

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The Fifty mountain area is pretty cool, not my favorite as I'm lake and cliffs biased, but it is pretty neat entering and exiting the plateau area. Cloud and fog patterns have been wild, and usually pretty windy. That and always the sense of bears.

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I've never hiked in this direction, so it was cool to get that new perspective - I always forget to turn around so I miss a lot.

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On the way down we ran into a trail crew working their way up, much less bushy, which was very appreciated given the temperatures and frost/dew.
The last time I did the circle I hadn't done the northern traverse yet, so the mountains NW of Waterton didn't really resonate - now they do, with Porcupine always standing out.

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I always like to peer back into the valleys and drainages, wondering. I think that is Mt Carter in the distance.

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Almost there.

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So made it, got lunch, all good. Beyond the trail crew, only ran into one other set of hikers passing through Stoney going east. So the campground was ours alone, which was a welcome relief given the congestion the last two nights.
Last edited by zozeppelin on Sun Mar 12, 2023 11:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: GNP 2022 - LPE to SBE (the long way)

Post by zozeppelin »

Day 4
9-22-2022 - ELF - Elizabeth Lake Foot
Fires; NO
Segment; Length 14.4
Elevation; Up 1290| Down 2708
Bear box: yes (2)

Today was going to be a bit longer, but only a brief climb in the morning over the pass, and the rest was downhill and flat, with the only complication being the ford at the head of Cosley. Couldn't be easier, right?

Well, we were awoken with rain. Made breakfast and broke down camp in a drizzle. Everything was fogged over, couldn't even see the pass.

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Look back at the lake.

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One other addition this year was that I finally broke down and brought rain pants - I had them for years but never bothered. Well them came in very handy and I'm very glad I did. But they are pretty heavy/bulky, so going to look for an upgrade this year. Going uphill in the wet and fog sucks, beyond the obvious wet/cold soaking you, you have no idea how much longer to the top. For some reason my knee started hurting me, which was strange and I thought I hadn't really pushed it much this trip yet. Looking back I attribute it to a bit of a hasty descent from Sue Lake overlook. I was surprised with the pass eventually, figuring it was further up.

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Unfortunately no clearer on the other side, which was unfortunate as Stoney Indian pass on the east side is gorgeous, like scene after scene of amazing new areas when you turn a corner or summit a cliff. Finally caught a glimpse of the Glenn's Lake, so that was good, but it was slow and painful moving today.

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Stopped for Lunch as Coseley. We had one group cross up going up to the pass, and caught another leaving camp headed east, otherwise few and far between. Obligatory picture of the ford (does it even count it is so low?).

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So onward to Elizabeth when the rain picked up again. Dry socks helped a bit until the 'waterproof' shoes soaked them. Knee started acting up, couldn't apply any force/resistance in bent position met with knife to knee pain. Started to feel the heel blisters coming, which I thought I had worked out with my hiking preparation, but water is the ultimate accelerator.

Arrived at camp with 3 sites taken, so setup in the rain. There was a group of two local climbers there - they had been at Mokowanis Junction the last couple nights trying to climb Mt. Cleveland without success. The try was too foggy to find the route and the second they attempted a different approach where the bushwhacking was too much as I understood it. They'd be with us the next night as well at Many Glacier.

Far for the ideal pass through Belly River, but that is how it goes.
Last edited by zozeppelin on Sun Mar 12, 2023 11:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: GNP 2022 - LPE to SBE (the long way)

Post by zozeppelin »

Day 5
9-23-2022 - MAN - MANY GLACIER
Fires; YES
Segment; Length 10.1
Elevation; Up 2660| Down 2617
Bear box: Yes

I was excited for this segment as it is one of my favorites and I had never done it in this direction. We were greeted with a nice sunrise display and the day looked good.

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Unfortunately, the clouds never left, so not much sun for good view. One of these days I'll get to Helen and checkout Ahern.

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Made it to the top, I was slowing down quite a bit due to the knee and heels. Tried to start slow to 'warm' it up, which kindof worked, but stopping is definitely bad.

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Obligatory picture backwards to Elizabeth.

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I like to read about hiking Glacier, especially the off-trail routes. This site has helped scratch that itch immensely. So when I'm hiking in an area that I know there is an 'unofficial' 'path', I'm on the lookout. So the one that I was really curious about, but I'm sure would never attempt myself, is the traverse from the tunnel to the notch (?) or Ahern (?) along goat paths. Mind continues to be boggled by how.

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Obligatory picture of Ptarmigan lake. Still fairly busy today considering late season. I guess the weather was better today vs earlier in the week.

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We decided to truck it to Many Glacier for lunch. Past the lake and waterfall there was a group of people and a bear spotter. Hard to see, but (s)he is there center frame.

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The views coming into Many Glacier were nice, I think this is Swiftcurrent. It has been 10 years since I have been that way, and as always never bothered to turn back when going the opposite direction.

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Trail crews had obviously been out, clearing about 5' in each direction to ground level. Cheers to them. My curiosity was on what we would find at Many Glacier. Supposedly the campground was 'primitive only', so I was expecting a ghost town with Swiftcurrent closed (and I think the hotel as well). Well come to find out, it was full. But the wells were closed, which was a nice creature comfort not having to filter water, but was a double whammy as my filter cartridge was way past needing to be exchanged, so it was quite the effort to get water this trip. The other modification was the bathrooms were closed, but there was a portable pit toilet (a nice one) available. The backcountry site was moved to where the hiker-biker typically is (just across the road south). We ended up getting water in the creek right behind that area (south) - no big deal (besides the pump).
Last edited by zozeppelin on Sun Mar 12, 2023 12:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: GNP 2022 - LPE to SBE (the long way)

Post by zozeppelin »

Day 6
EXIT - SIYEH BEND (TRAILHEAD)
Segment; Length 13.8
Elevation; Up 3039| Down 2137

Ok last day. Plane to catch in the evening, and wanted to watch the football game as well, so had an early start given the trail. This probably is my favorite hike in Glacier, having done it 4 times now, two in each direction.

I've never been clear which is the best/correct way to go from Many Glacier to Piegan Pass Trail.

The bridge was 'out'.

My knee pretty much froze / locked / didn't want to go anymore about half way up, so it was half strides the rest of the way up and down. Was briefly concerned about being stuck, but realized I could make it work just leading with the good leg. Heel blisters gave way as well, which was manageable. Limped around the next couple weeks, but good to go now. I think it was just overuse of the IT band, which I've had in the past, but never to the point of 'stuck'.

Recap later, but just pictures for now. Phenomenal views.

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Last edited by zozeppelin on Sun Mar 12, 2023 12:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: GNP 2022 - LPE to SBE (the long way)

Post by paul »

Nice seeing you are finally getting to your trip report. I can see why you would be upset about the CDT hikers being pushed on to your site without your permission. That's just wrong. Some years back, Hole in the wall was overbooked the one night I was there. I had my camp set up already and the last group in found that all sites were taken. There was a ranger staying there that night but he didn't ask us to share our site. Instead, he found a spot on some grass not far from the food prep area where the last group in could pitch their tent. I think it all depends on who you get as ranger. I know the guy we had worked hard to get it all settled.
We are in the mountains and the mountains are in us. - John Muir
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Re: GNP 2022 - LPE to SBE (the long way)

Post by tibber »

Glad to see you got some good light for both your Overlook pictures; especially Grinnell. And I agree, when you can't get it all in a shot, shoot pano or in my case, a movie.

The CDTers sound like a bit of a pain though; there should be some sort of signage up as to how to deal with that; especially in respect to the backpackers that have reserved sites.
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Re: GNP 2022 - LPE to SBE (the long way)

Post by zozeppelin »

Don't get me wrong on the CDT'ers, I don't feel entitled to a spot, it's not like I own it just because I have a permit, but didn't like how it went down. If they just would have asked, it would have been unreasonable to say no, but instead they just squatted (three tents) and never said a word (to us, but were happy to chatter away went we went to bed for the night).

I emphasize with their situation - it's not like they know to the day 5 months in advance when they'll arrive Glacier, so they'll show up in droves looking for walkin permits all around the same time and similar paths. And to Glacier's credit, I do like that they tried to accommodate them. But with that many trail miles, I would have hoped for some more etiquette. At any rate, my experience with maybe twenty CDTers over the last several years is that they generally fall into two camps: either very thoughtful and self-aware, or 'f-it I just walked 3000 mi so I don't get a $&#* about anyone else but me'. The large majority have land in the first group, and I have especially enjoyed talking with the solo-hikers. Really impressive either way, their 'short' days are my 'long' days, for months on end.
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Re: GNP 2022 - LPE to SBE (the long way)

Post by MISSY »

Thanks for the trip report and pics! I've enjoyed reading about your adventure.
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Re: GNP 2022 - LPE to SBE (the long way)

Post by paul »

zozeppelin wrote: Sun Mar 12, 2023 12:40 pm If they just would have asked, it would have been unreasonable to say no, but instead they just squatted (three tents) and never said a word (to us, but were happy to chatter away went we went to bed for the night).
I don't think I would had much patience for that stuff.
We are in the mountains and the mountains are in us. - John Muir
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